The spectacular Luberon has long been a popular destination amongst French, British and American holidaymakers. East of Avignon, the Luberon massif stretches across central Provence and encompasses three mountain ranges. Characterised by verdant valleys with green fields and rows of vines, famed chiefly for their Syrah and Grenache noir wines, the region has become a favourite amongst foodies, as well as keen hikers, cyclists and nature lovers. Heritage aficionados, too, will be delighted by this part of Provence. Beautiful medieval villages boast winding cobbled lanes, and stone houses topped with terracotta tiles cling to dramatic hillsides. Boutique hotels are housed in restored mills, converted châteaux and pretty farmhouses with panoramic valley views. Soothing spas and refreshing swimming pools await, and long summer evenings feel made for savouring seasonal cuisine under the stars.
Fly into Avignon or Marseille, both within easy reach of the villages of the Luberon by road. Opportunities for vineyard tours and tastings abound throughout the region, as do chances to peruse lively village markets.
Bisected by the Calavon River basin and an old Roman road, the Luberon Valley can largely be divided into north and south. Highlights in the southern Luberon include golden-hued Bonnieux, one of the most striking hillside villages in France. Lourmarin, further to the south, is another idyllic spot with a popular Friday market and brilliant boutiques. We’d also suggest popping in to Saignon, admiring the poppies near Lacoste, and picking up market-fresh produce in Apt, where the Roman-built Pont Julien still stands. Artsy Ménerbes is another favourite.
Escape the crowds with a few days amidst the lavender fields and truffle oaks of the Luberon plateau, which feels far cooler than the valley during the summer months. This is a wonderful area for bird watchers, ramblers, hikers and rock climbers. Follow parts of the Roman footpath, spot prehistoric cave dwellings in huge rocks, and stroll through the ruined Fort de Buoux. Top spots in the north include gorgeous Roussillon, the fortified village of Gordes, home to many of the best boutique hotels in the Luberon, and L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with its legendary Sunday antiques market.
Further west lies the mysterious source of the Sorgue River, near charming Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. For a long, riverside summer lunch, there’s nowhere better!
The Luberon Valley’s many hillside villages will delight culture aficionados, keen shoppers and foodies. This is a rural region, home to small communities rather than large cities, and it’s worth remembering that little hamlets can easily become busy during the summer season and the autumn harvest. If you’re happy to immerse yourself in the action, stay in lovely Bonnieux, Gordes, Roussillon or Lourmarin. The area around Fontaine-de-Vaucluse can be crowded, too.
For a more tranquil experience, choose a hotel or villa in the countryside, within walking or driving distance of villages where you’ll find pretty bistros, markets and heritage buildings. There are quieter hotels hidden in the mountains and on the Luberon plateau, perfect for rambling and bird watching holidays.
If you’d like to explore the region more widely, we’d suggest hiring a car. But do leave plenty of time for parking when venturing into villages on market day!
Some of the most magical boutique hotels in the Luberon are tucked within converted heritage houses in stone-built hillside villages. These tend to be intimate boltholes with small, characterful guest rooms featuring exposed wooden beams, village or valley views, and lovely courtyard restaurants.
Beyond the villages, you’ll find larger hotels housed in converted farm buildings, old manors or, in the case of one of our favourite retreats, a former convent. These hotels tend to offer more extensive facilities and a larger number of rooms. Expect cooling swimming pools, serene spas, al fresco eateries and well-maintained grounds. Brilliant for groups of friends, we’d also recommend these hotels to families with older children. You’ll find walking and cycling routes, as well as kayaking opportunities, right on your doorstep.