Once the Roman capital of Gaul, Lyon is now France’s third-largest city — and deemed by many to be its culinary capital. Perched at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers, the city has become a bustling arts, heritage and foodie hotspot, popular with couples, solo travellers and groups of friends alike. With a cobbled medieval heart and beautiful 19th-century boulevards framing lively seasonal markets, neighbourhood bistros and a cluster of stand-out museums, there’s no shortage of things to see and do in UNESCO-listed Lyon. The city’s boutique hotels, too, promise character and charm in spades, perfect for a long weekend to remember.
Begin your explorations on the western bank of the Saône, in well-preserved Vieux Lyon. The cobbled lanes of Lyon’s old town are lined with colourful Renaissance façades, whilst its squares feature striking churches and sun-drenched cafés. Highlights for history buffs include impressive Cathédral Saint-Jean, the Museé Historique de la Ville de Lyon, and the traboules — little passages which connect parallel streets. Guided old town tours come highly recommended! Amble around Lyon’s ancient amphitheatre for a sense of the city’s Roman past, before marvelling at the collections of the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the ultra-modern Musée des Confluences.
Trendy la Presqu’île's bars and cafés are well worth exploring, as are the independent shops lining the lanes of Croix-Rousse, the silk weavers’ district. High above Lyon, the elaborately decorated Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière promises panoramic city views.
Keen foodies, on the other hand, should make for the popular Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, the riverside food markets, and the eateries which stud Lyon’s tree-lined boulevards. Some of the region’s top traditional cuisine is served in bouchons — the city’s quirky pub-bistros — and is at its best when paired with terrific French wines. If time allows, day trips to the vineyards of Beaujolais are fabulous.
When it comes to first-time visitors, Vieux Lyon and la Presqu’île top our list of recommended districts. Lyon’s historic old town promises beautiful heritage architecture and atmosphere, but it can be pricier and more crowded during the summer months. Verdant Fourvière is a lovely nearby alternative.
La Presqu’île, by contrast, is Lyon’s elegant contemporary heart, on the sliver of land between the Saône and Rhône Rivers which bisect the city. Great for designer shopping, la Presqu’île also boasts some excellent restaurants and theatres, including the acclaimed Opéra de Lyon.
For a more bohemian residential neighbourhood, look to leafy La Croix-Rousse, with its shaded squares, traditional markets and plethora of private residences. We’d suggest staying here if you’re travelling as a family.
Multicultural La Guillotière offers an affordable alternative. Also residential, this district sits on the left bank of the Rhône and has a more artsy student vibe, as well as a huge array of eateries.
Fans of innovative design and post-industrial cool may find themselves most tempted by the renovated old docks of La Confluence. Transformed into apartments and entertainment spaces, these waterfront landmarks also house attractive boutique hotels just steps from the city’s most avant-garde museum.
Much of Lyon’s appeal lies in its layers of history, and the way in which the past has shaped the present. This is certainly true of the best boutique hotels in Lyon. Many of our favourite places to stay in the city are housed in restored historic buildings, ensuring the preservation of landmark sites whilst creating comfortable, contemporary spaces within them. Expect well-maintained period features, including polished wood, terracotta tiles and intricate stonework in many such hotels. You’ll find modern art, too, plus light-filled interiors with clean lines, soft textiles and big cosy beds.
As feels fitting for a food-focused city, Lyon’s hotels boast brilliant bistros of their own, and cracking bars for sampling French wine. Throw in a soothing spa or swimming pool in the most indulgent boutique boltholes, and there’s little reason to leave!
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France
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